The Wild History of the Real ‘Only Murders’ Building

Fans of the Hulu collection “Only Murders in the Building,” which returns for its second season this week, know the constructing on the middle of the drama because the Arconia, the place Steve Martin, Martin Short and Selena Gomez play an unlikely trio of residents who develop into beginner sleuths with a podcast. But the Renaissance-style condominium constructing on the Upper West Side of Manhattan is definitely known as the Belnord, and it has been making headlines for greater than a century.

From the get-go, the Belnord was a newsmaker — an edifice of extra, a house for hyperbole. When it was completed in 1909, protecting a full metropolis block at West 86th Street and Broadway, the architect boasted that it was the biggest condominium constructing within the nation, and possibly the world. Newspapers, including this one, touted the inside courtyard as the largest in Manhattan — a half acre of open area, with a backyard and a garden “for a rating of kids to romp on,” topped with a bountiful, tiered marble fountain.

They marveled at its capacious rental flats, 175 of them, every 50 ft deep, stretching from avenue to courtyard, with inside ornament “within the type of Louis XVI” — pale, painted paneling and “harmoniously tinted silks” on the partitions — and essentially the most up-to-date fashionable conveniences. The fridges had ice machines, so no iceman would ever invade the Belnord, as one paper put it. On the roof, every condominium had a personal laundry, a low-tech luxurious that included a bathtub, ironing board and clothesline — for the comfort of 1’s maid.

It could be its personal metropolis, this paper famous, with a inhabitants of greater than 1,500. Over the years, there have been notable tenants: Lee Strasberg, the dictatorial father of Method appearing, who was typically visited by his shy protégée Marilyn Monroe; Walter Matthau, when he was an up-and-coming theater actor with a younger household; the actor Zero Mostel, who performed Tevye within the unique Broadway manufacturing of “Fiddler on the Roof”; and Isaac Bashevis Singer, the Nobel Prize-winning writer, who preferred to jog across the courtyard in a three-piece go well with.

But by the Seventies, that metropolis was in chaos. The ornate limestone-and-terra-cotta construction was crumbling, the roof was leaking and the plumbing cracked. Ceilings have been collapsing. Stalactites, The New York Times reported in 1980, had fashioned within the basement. The fountain had been damaged for years, and the backyard was a fenced-in jungle, off limits to residents.

The constructing’s proprietor, Lillian Seril, would earn the doubtful distinction of being one of the city’s worst landlords: By all accounts, she was each litigious and recalcitrant, refusing to repair even the best points, however energetic sufficient to sue not solely her tenants but additionally the owner affiliation that threw her out for not paying her dues. (Tenants recalled shopping for their very own fridges and sneaking them in with the assistance of sympathetic constructing workers, as a result of Mrs. Seril wouldn’t permit their damaged home equipment to be repaired or changed.)

The Belnord’s residents, lots of whom paid just some hundred {dollars} a month for his or her huge, house-like flats, organized and revolted. In 1978, they started what could be the longest hire strike within the metropolis’s historical past.

For the 16 years that it went on, the Belnord battle was so contentious that one housing courtroom choose declared that the 2 sides deserved one another, earlier than washing his palms of the case when a settlement he had brokered collapsed. “I’m satisfied the tenants and the proprietor are going to litigate the constructing to loss of life,” he stated. A metropolis official likened the scenario to the siege of Beirut.

The battle led to 1994, when the developer Gary Barnett, who was then solely 38, bought the building with a bunch of traders for $15 million. (As a part of the deal, Mrs. Seril insisted on retaining a 3,000-square-foot rent-controlled condominium for herself — at her death, in 2004, she was paying just $450 a month.) A decade later, Mr. Barnett and his firm, Extell Development, would construct One57, the funnel-shaped, blue-glass skyscraper on West 57th that was the town’s first supertall tower and, in so doing, incur the ire of preservationists, city planners and civic teams. But in these years, he was a hero. The Belnord was his first Manhattan property, and he would spend $100 million shoring it up.

He made numerous offers with particular person tenants as he tried to show the place right into a luxurious rental constructing, with some flats that leased for as much as $45,000 a month. For a rabbi and his household who have been paying $275 for a 4,000-square-foot condominium, Mr. Barnett purchased a home within the New Jersey suburbs. Then there was the penthouse dweller who hankered for the desert: He flew her to Las Vegas to select a home with a pool, organized for its buy and paid her transferring bills. Other tenants opted to maintain their low rents, however agreed to swap their huge, 11-room flats for smaller ones.

Mr. Barnett as soon as joked that the fountain he had resuscitated at huge expense — a challenge that concerned disassembling and carting it away for repairs — was the fountain of youth, as a result of no person ever appeared to die on the Belnord.

“It was a labor of affection to revive that constructing,” he stated just lately. “But I didn’t actually perceive what I used to be moving into. It was fairly an image.”

By 2015, Mr. Barnett was out of the image, in a deal price a reported $575 million.

Like the whole lot else on the Belnord, the phrases of Mr. Barnett’s mortgage had been problematic, and for a time, after he stopped making the mortgage funds, the town categorized the property as “distressed.” (The calculus of the constructing’s debt and its rental income by no means fairly added up.) And so a brand new group of traders swooped in — the forged of which stored altering, as numerous gamers dropped out due to insolvency, lawsuits and different calamities — to show the place right into a high-end condominium, changing the 100 or so obtainable flats into showplaces with Italian kitchens sheathed in marble.

Robert A.M. Stern, the architect whose agency dealt with the conversion, described the method as “a really high-class Botox remedy.”

Prices for the revamped items ranged from about $3.6 million to greater than $11 million, though some tenants purchased their very own flats at deep reductions. After a rocky begin, the condos are actually promoting briskly, retaining tempo with the high-end market within the metropolis, stated Jonathan Miller, the veteran property and market appraiser.

And now the Belnord is as soon as once more within the limelight, because of the Hulu collection. John Hoffman, who created the present with Mr. Martin, was delighted and surprised to have scored the place for his manufacturing, significantly in the midst of a pandemic. While the atmospheric flats of Mr. Martin, Mr. Short and Ms. Gomez’s characters have been constructed on a sound stage, the story wanted a constructing just like the Belnord, with its grand appointments and panopticon of a courtyard.

“I used to be obsessed,” Mr. Hoffman stated. “I knew we might make one thing as elevated as that incredible constructing. It’s a cliché to say that the constructing itself is a personality, however I just like the problem of getting past that cliché a bit. What pulls us out of our flats to fulfill folks? How properly are you aware your neighbors? Do you solely join when it’s essential? The methods during which we get pulled collectively once we dwell in these areas is what’s actually fascinating.”

One Friday night in early June, Debbie Marx, a Latin trainer and longtime Belnord resident, led a customer by way of her unrenovated basic seven, its meandering, book-lined hallways a time capsule from 1959, the yr her dad and mom moved in. Her father, Josef Marx, was an oboist and musicologist who had his personal music publishing firm; her mom, Angelina, had been a ballerina. Ms. Marx moved again into her childhood condominium within the late Eighties, when she was pregnant along with her first youngster and her mom was dwelling there alone. Ms. Marx’s father had died in 1978, a sufferer, in a manner, of the Belnord battle, having suffered a coronary heart assault within the courthouse throughout a listening to together with his fellow tenants.

Ms. Marx recalled rising up within the constructing — taking part in handball within the courtyard, which was forbidden by Mrs. Seril, and slipping by way of the bars of the fence to the off-limits backyard, by then a riot of shrubs and bushes. She had her personal courtyard gang, with Walter Matthau’s daughter Jenny and others, however their transgressions have been delicate: nicking the hat from a doorman, commandeering the service elevator, dropping the odd water bomb.

“It’s like an archaeological web site,” Richard Stengel stated of the constructing. “The additional you burrow down, you get a special tradition and historical past.”

Mr. Stengel, the writer, journalist and former State Department official, has been a tenant since 1992, when he moved into an condominium that had been charred by a fireplace and left vacant for years. (If you see Mr. Stengel on MSNBC, the place he’s a contributor, with a deep crimson bookshelf behind him, he’s broadcasting from his condominium on the Belnord.)

John Scanlon, the wily public relations man who died in 2001, was additionally a ’90s-era tenant. In these days, Mr. Scanlon was embroiled in one other long-running New York City actual property battle: the primary Trump divorce. (He was Ivana Trump’s spokesman.)

Like Mr. Stengel, Mr. Scanlon was a member of a Belnord demographic that you simply may name literary-and-publishing adjoining. He preferred to tease Mr. Stengel, who was then the editor of Time journal, once they collided within the courtyard: “How does it really feel to be on the chopping fringe of the passé?”

Earlier waves of tenants included Jewish European émigrés, unreconstructed Socialists and scores of psychoanalysts.

“When we moved in, it had the texture of an Eastern European shtetl,” stated Peter Krulewitch, an actual property investor who arrived 35 years in the past together with his spouse, Deborah, a retired Estee Lauder government, and shortly fashioned what grew to become generally known as the Belnord 18, one of many many splinter teams of constructing tenants who tried to barter with Mrs. Seril. “There have been these fantastic growing old lefties that had been there for years — and fought Mrs. Seril for years.”

In many circumstances, these tenants had succession rights for his or her youngsters. So regardless of the inflow of condominium patrons, Mr. Krulewitch stated, the Belnord is a metropolis that also — though simply barely — has a inhabitants extra culturally diversified than the monolithic moneyed class that has taken over a lot of Manhattan.

As Mr. Krulewitch put it, “It has been fairly an journey.”

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