Pendant Watches Swing Back Into Fashion

Pendant watches are having one thing of a vogue second — simply cue the Watches and Wonders honest held in Geneva this spring, the place vogue homes together with Chanel and Hermès offered a number of types of pendant timepieces of their lineups of creations for the 12 months.

With their swaying, sautoir type, these new pendant watches embrace a seamless curiosity in Nineteen Seventies-era jewellery and fashions by makers like Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget, whereas additionally nodding to fob-chain pocket watches, one of many pillars of conventional watchmaking.

From classic choices to daring new designs, we’ve rounded up the perfect of the pendants from six luxurious corporations to get you into the swing of issues.

At Watches and Wonders, Chanel launched three pendant watches as a part of its Mademoiselle Privé assortment, a line that Arnaud Chastaingt, the director of Chanel’s watchmaking creation studio, stated was about intimacy, femininity and exclusivity. Past designs have included a cuff watch, and now sautoir timepieces. “Mademoiselle Privé is an ode to creativity and for me a rare discipline of creative expression,” Mr. Chastaingt stated in an e mail, including that with pendant watches he hoped to “deliver audacity and avant-gardism” to timekeeping.

Perhaps probably the most pleasant of his three designs is the Cage Long Necklace (worth on utility), which is ready with 577 brilliant-cut, 26 baguette-cut and 12 trapezoid-cut diamonds. It takes the type of two love birds in a gold cage that dangles from a series studded with 132 of the diamonds and was impressed by a hen cage that decorates the Chanel residence on Rue Cambon in Paris. (The area recreates Coco Chanel’s private residence and has confirmed to be a wealthy supply of inspiration — its Coromandel lacquer screens influenced one other of Mr. Chastaingt’s pendant watch designs). The one-of-a-kind Cage Long Necklace additionally options 46 cultured Akoya pearls: The birds are crafted from two oval pearls. On the underside of the cage is the small, virtually hidden, quartz watch.

Hermès, one other French luxurious home, has been exploring the pendant watch type in recent times, utilizing the pocket watch as its start line. “Pocket watches are pricey to Hermès, they recall the origins of watchmaking,” Philippe Delhotal, the artistic director of Hermès Horloger, stated in an e mail. The firm’s creations juxtapose excessive problems with tongue-in-cheek design, such because the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! from 2020 that paired a minute repeater and tourbillon with a close-up of the face of a Tyrannosaurus in a leather-based marquetry mosaic. The identical watch motion makes its approach into this 12 months’s Arceau Pocket Cheval Punk, with a horse’s head and neck on the quilt, that includes a whimsical, punk-like mane, all executed through a whole lot of hours of engraving, miniature enamel paintwork and champlevé enameling.

It’s an strategy to timekeeping that’s much less about measurement and management than it’s about taking part in with time, Mr. Delhotal stated. The pocket watches are “designed to arouse feelings, open up interludes and create areas for spontaneity and recreation,” he wrote.

Introduced in 2021, Dior’s Gem Dior assortment is an ode to the tough, natural shapes of gems, the place asymmetrically-cut stones have punctuated the likes of stackable rings and bracelets and featured as eight-faceted watch dials. Vibrant, eye-popping shade can also be a signature — suppose lapis lazuli, malachite, carnelian, tiger’s-eye, aragonite and turquoise — but in addition cool monochrome designs from onyx and pavé diamonds. Dior has now launched two medallion-style pendant watches, its first necklace watches, at 25,000 euros or $30,500 every. One — an ultrafeminine mannequin that pairs aragonite with carnelian — is complemented by pink gold and diamonds, and is a follow-up to an identical wristwatch offered earlier this 12 months. The second, with a malachite face, is the extra standout piece, its yellow gold and diamond accents expressing Gem Dior’s classic ’70s vibe.

At Homo Faber, the current biennial craftsmanship honest in Venice, the Swiss luxurious watchmaker and jeweler Piaget displayed a pendant watch from 1971 that’s a part of its archives and never on the market. The multi-strand sautoir, in yellow gold with lapis lazuli beads and dial, wouldn’t have appeared misplaced within the Swinging Sixties both — and personified Piaget’s twenty first Century Collection, a line of daring and daring watches and jewellery that was created in 1969. Typically set with onerous stones and powered by the home’s ultrathin mechanical hand-wound motion, classic Piaget pendant watches like these have grown in reputation with collectors. In 2012, as an example, Piaget acquired for its archive a ’70s coral and turquoise pendant watch at public sale in Geneva for 47,000 Swiss francs, or about $49,000 at current alternate charges. Jean-Bernard Forot, Piaget’s head of patrimony, stated {that a} related Piaget piece from the identical period was auctioned for practically double the value two years later.

A resplendent Cartier necklace watch went below the hammer final month on the Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale at Sotheby’s in Geneva. The lot — which included a pair of matching earrings — bought for 352,800 Swiss francs, exceeding its pre-auction estimate. The jewel, produced inside the previous decade, has a cascade of emerald beads and diamonds that culminates in a big emerald carved with a floral design, the highest of its heart stone set with a tiny watch face simply hidden from view — seen solely to the wearer.

Olivier Wagner, the top of jewellery gross sales at Sotheby’s Geneva, stated that he had by no means seen the same necklace watch in his 17 years on the public sale home. He remarked that the design stood out from the standard pendant watches made within the early twentieth century. During that interval, he stated, “girls weren’t sporting wristwatches, however they needed to have a watch someplace, so it was hid in a pendant and worn in a chic approach.”

The Zurich-based Ineichen Auctioneers bought two restricted version Audemars Piguet pocket watches final month — Ref. 25728 in rose gold and Ref. 25729 in platinum — as a part of a particular public sale to mark the 50th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak wristwatch. The rose gold pocket watch bought for 60,000 Swiss francs and the platinum for 135,000 francs, each exceeding their pre-sale estimates. The timepieces have been produced in 1992 to mark the twentieth anniversary of the Royal Oak, and have been made in a restricted variety of 20 items every. The two bought final month have been every engraved on the case backs as quantity 15 and had been acquired by a single collector in 1993.

At 47 millimeters and set with a traditional white dial on the rose gold pocket watch, and with an openwork design on the platinum one, the timepieces function a perpetual calendar, a complication wanted by collectors, and are available suspended on authentic and architectural Audemars Piguet fob chains.



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