Build a easy wall-mounted laundry rack to dry your delicates in type

When you could have a variety of garments that don’t fare significantly properly within the dryer, it may be laborious to determine the place to hold your freshly washed bathing fits, health club garments, delicate shirts, and naturally, unmentionables. My household has been draping these damp clothes from the wire shelf above the washer, however we’re sick of doing that. It’s ugly, and it doesn’t work all that properly—the garments fall right into a pile or slip behind the machines half the time.

With house at a premium, our resolution is a folding wall-mounted laundry rack with a small storage shelf on prime. The contraption is mainly a big body with a smaller body inside it on hinges. When wanted, you possibly can pull the interior body out at an angle and hold your garments to dry from a collection of dowels. Once your garments are dry, take them down, push the drying body again into place, and it’ll keep there till you want it once more.

This is a comparatively easy construct, although there are a variety of locations the place issues can go mistaken in case you’re not cautious. I used to be in a position to construct mine from a combination of poplar and pine I had lying around, however you need to use nearly any wooden you need. If you’re planning to color yours, I like to recommend poplar. It’s not as costly as an oak or maple, however paints higher than pine and stains fairly properly, too.

At the time of publication, the laundry hanger has been up for a couple of month, and it’s already considerably improved each the look and performance of our laundry room.

Warning: DIY initiatives may be harmful, even for probably the most skilled makers. Before continuing with this or every other venture on our website, guarantee you could have all vital security gear and know how one can use it correctly. At minimal, which will embody security glasses, a facemask, and/or ear safety. If you’re utilizing energy instruments, you need to know how one can use them safely and appropriately. If you don’t, or are in any other case uncomfortable with something described right here, don’t try this venture.


  • Time: 4 to six hours
  • Cost: $50 to $75
  • Difficulty: reasonable


How to construct a wall-mounted drying rack

1. Mill the lumber to tough dimensions. This is a type of initiatives the place the higher you mill your lumber, the higher outcomes you’ll get. Start by reducing your board all the way down to tough size, about 1 inch longer than the ultimate dimensions of every piece. You could possibly optimize your selection of wooden in another way, however I reached this level with one 29-inch board for the lengthy sides of the surface body, one 27-inch board for all sides of the within body, one 23-inch board for the remaining items of the surface body, and a 25-inch board for the higher shelf.

If you aren’t positive of the subsequent steps, I put collectively a full, detailed information on how to properly mill and joint wood. The fundamentals, although, are to joint one face and edge, airplane the alternative face, after which minimize the items all the way down to their remaining width in your desk noticed. When you’re accomplished, it’s best to have 9 completely milled boards: 

  • 2 (23-by-1.5-inch) boards for the highest and backside of the surface body
  • 2 (29-by-1.5-inch) boards for the left and proper sides of the surface body
  • 2 (20-by-1-inch) boards for the highest and backside of the within body
  • 2 (27-by-1-inch) boards for the left and proper sides of the within body
  • 1 (25-by-4-inch) board for the highest shelf

2. Cut the miters. As a part of this step, you’ll additionally trim the boards all the way down to their remaining lengths. There are a number of methods to chop the 45-degree angles, and one of the frequent is with a miter noticed. Simply alter the angle of your software to 45 levels, and trim the ends of every board to size. I, nevertheless, want to make use of my desk noticed and a crosscut sled, with the blade set to 45 levels. For this to work, you’ll both have to set your blade to 45 levels and minimize a brand new blade channel in your current crosscut sled, or build a second sled specifically for miters, which is what I did.

Before you begin reducing, use a digital angle gauge to substantiate that your blade is ready to 45 levels. It might not appear to be a lot, however 44.8 levels can go away some fairly huge gaps between items, even in case you do handle to pressure your frames sq.. 

Pay cautious consideration to the route of the angles, too. You’ll need to flip every board round, not simply slide it left and proper, to make the second minimize. If the ends of the board are parallel, you’ve tousled.

Once you could have your miters accomplished, dry-fit the frames collectively to verify every thing matches such as you count on. 

  • Pro tip: Glue the surface body collectively earlier than reducing the miters for the within body. This will allow you to double-check the inside dimensions. In my case, I forgot to account for the wooden I’d eliminated in milling, so the hole between the 2 frames would have been a couple of quarter-inch bigger than I’d deliberate if I’d minimize all of the miters on the similar time.  

3. Drill dowel holes within the interior body. The dowels you’ll hold your garments on connect to the interior body. To hold the body sq. and make sure the dowels keep parallel, the holes in each facet items have to be completely aligned. The simplest way to do that is to drill them on the similar time.

Use painter’s tape to safe the 2 lengthy facet items of the interior body collectively, with the surface edge of every piece urgent towards one another and the shortest edge of every board going through out. Then measure the spacing of the dowels. I unfold mine 4 inches aside, and three inches from every finish of the board. This spacing appears to work properly for many garments we dry.

[Related: How to wash your clothes without wearing them out]

Once the boards are taped and the outlet places marked, use a ⅜-inch bit to drill via each boards. The greatest software for it is a drill press. Put one of many quick edges down on the press desk, with the opposite gap going through as much as drill out the holes. If you don’t have a drill press, you need to use an everyday drill, however be sure to are drilling straight via the boards, not at an angle. You can make a simple jig to assist the alignment.

4. Glue up the frames. The simplest way I’ve discovered to do that is to make use of nook clamps. Spread a skinny layer of glue onto every mitered finish, then clamp the 2 items collectively. Adjust the wooden contained in the clamp till the outer corners are flush and the seam is tight. This methodology additionally makes it simpler to put in the dowels into the interior body earlier than gluing it up.

If you don’t have nook clamps, you need to use painter’s tape. Lay out the items of every body with the outer edges going through up and the connecting ends touching in an extended line. Then stretch a 2-to-3-inch piece of painter’s tape throughout every joint. Flip all 4 boards over on the similar time so the outer edges are going through down and the open miter joints face up. Spread glue inside every miter joint.

Now, roll your complete line up, beginning at one edge, so all 4 boards type a sq.. Secure the ultimate joint with painter’s tape. If you’d prefer to see how this works in apply, I used this tape methodology to connect up the items of a coffin-shaped wedding card box.

For added stability, use a brad nailer to drive two nails into every joint. 

  • Pro tip: Before gluing, put painter’s tape alongside the within nook of every board, proper subsequent to the angle of the miter. This will catch the glue that squeezes out when the 2 boards come collectively, making sanding and cleanup sooner and simpler. 

5. Install the dowels within the interior body. If you haven’t already, minimize and set up the dowels to suit the interior body. I minimize mine about an inch longer than they wanted to be, so that they stick out the edges half an inch. Smear some glue alongside every finish of the dowels, and push them via the holes.

Clean up any glue squeeze-out with a moist paper towel. 

Again, for stability, drive a single brad nail via the again of the body and into the dowel.  

Once the dowels are safe and the glue is dry, use a flush-cut noticed to trim all of the dowels even with the outer fringe of the body.  

6. Install prime and backside nailer strips on the outer body. Right now, there’s no solution to really safe the body to the wall. To clear up this drawback, set up a nailer strip on the prime and backside of the outer body.  

Cut two strips of ¼-inch plywood which might be the identical size because the outer body is huge. Mine have been 3 inches huge and 22 inches lengthy. Glue and brad nail these strips to the again of the outer body, flush with the highest and backside. There needs to be about 2 inches of nailer strip seen contained in the body.

(Optional) 7. Route any ornamental trim components. There’s completely nothing mistaken with leaving your frames sq., with proper angles all over the place. However, if you want to get away from the blocky look, now’s the time so as to add some ornamental components. I selected to make use of a router with a roundover bit on the within fringe of the outer body. This softened the profile a bit and gave the interior body a pleasant, gradual inward slope. 

(Optional) 8. Install the shelf on the outer body. If you need a shelf on prime of your laundry hanger, set up that now. Glue and brad nail the shelf to the highest of the body. Use clamps to safe it till the glue dries. 

9. Sand every thing easy. Time to pay the sandman. Sanding is the distinction between a professional-looking product and one marred by noticed marks and blemishes. Trust me, you’ll by no means unsee them. Use an orbital sander for any flat surfaces and hand-sand the ornamental trim as wanted. Start with 120-grit paper, after which transfer to 150- and 220-grit to complete.

Don’t neglect to sand the dowels.  

10. Drill holes for the hinges. I’m not going to lie—I battle with hinges. They all the time wind up barely out of alignment, so if anybody has a foolproof manner they do it, please let me know.

[Related: Build your own door and ascend to a higher level of DIY]

Absent that professional tip, first tape the hinges into place on the underside of the interior body. Then drill pilot holes for every hinge via the tape, so you possibly can see the place the hinge aligns into one body.

Then place the body contained in the outer body. Trace the perimeters and entrance of every hinge onto the outer body, take away the hinge from the interior body, lay it in place on the outer body, and drill the pilot holes there.  

This manner is pretty correct, and I’ll hold doing it that manner till I discover a higher methodology.  

11. Install the magnets. These magnets will maintain the interior body within the upright place when it’s closed. There are, after all, different choices for latching it in place; I like magnets as a result of they aren’t significantly seen and are easy to make use of.  

Drill a shallow gap within the prime two corners of the again of the interior body. Then drill an identical shallow gap within the prime nail strip. When the interior body is closed, the 2 holes ought to line up.

A shallow gap is all you might want to lay the magnet in place. Jean Levasseur
Finally, use tremendous glue to safe the magnets inside these holes, ensuring the attracting sides are going through each other when every thing is closed.  

12. Apply your end. Whatever end you select, put it on in accordance with the producer’s directions. I selected to make use of white spray paint, which took two full coats after which a 3rd touch-up coat.

13. Hang the rack in your wall. Install the outer body first. Find and mark the studs in your wall and place the body towards them. Use a pencil to calmly mark the place they go on the nailer strips, after which drill screw holes with a countersink bit. Next, screw the outer body to the wall. If you solely have one stud that can fall behind the body, use a drywall anchor and one stud. Make positive you hit one stud, even when meaning the rack has to go in a less-than-ideal location.  

Once the outer body is up, set up the interior one. Ideally, it is a two-person job. First, set up the hinges into the underside of the interior body. Then, one individual ought to maintain the interior body on the underside lip of the outer body so the hinges line up with the pre-drilled holes. The second individual ought to screw the hinges into place.

If your interior body is barely out of alignment, loosen the screws on one hinge and shim it with skinny items of scrap wooden. Then tighten the hinge again down onto the shims. This will push the highest of the interior body away from the hinge that you simply shimmed; in case you shim the left hinge, the body will lean to the fitting.

You can set up the interior body earlier than hanging the outer body, however I believed it could be more durable to connect it to the wall across the dowels than to put in the hinges later. However, if you need to set up this alone, it would probably be simpler to put in the interior body earlier than hanging.  

14. Cut and connect the chain. Finally, determine how far you need the laundry hanger to fold out into the room. Cut your chain with wire cutters to match that. The chain ought to run from the within higher nook of the outer body to the within higher nook of the interior body. Screw hooks into the suitable places, ensuring that neither the hooks nor chains intervene with opening or closing the body. If there’s no location the place the hooks don’t get in the way in which, you need to use very small screws as an alternative.

Now it’s simply time to clean some laundry, hold just a few items up, and watch them dry. Well, perhaps not watch. Go away and construct one thing else whereas they dry. But then come again later and luxuriate in the truth that your bathing go well with is, in reality, dry.



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