A Brief History of Precious Metals in Watchmaking

Precious metals, often called noble metals, have superb origin tales. Indeed, every thing
from helium to iron is cast within the hearts of stars. These parts are the merchandise of
fusion reactions, basically. Well treasured metals go one higher, and the platinum group
takes it to a different stage.

The alchemist’s dream of reworking matter is only a matter of present; if stars exist, matter transformation is going on. Fusion turns hydrogen into helium as if it was essentially the most pure factor within the universe. In truth, it’s. One second, hydrogen goes about its enterprise because it has because the Big Bang, after which gravity invitations it to a party and it meets a pleasant neutron (or two) and transforms into helium. Well, the poetic licence there’s our personal, and nobody authorised it. Please ship your brickbats my manner. Essentially although, that’s how fusion works (minus a correct rationalization of the sturdy power) however its transformative powers don’t go previous iron.

Hydrogen and helium are essentially the most ample supplies within the observable universe, and are primordial. They are additionally amongst the least large (i.e. lightest for shorthand) parts on the periodic desk. Although helium could be produced by way of fusion, as talked about, and radioactive decay (we is not going to go there), this type of transformation has its limits. For heavier parts, one thing extra violently highly effective than the fusion coronary heart of even essentially the most large star is required. Even if such a star have been to blow up and spew its innards throughout the universe, this matter wouldn’t embody platinum. There is solely not sufficient power in even essentially the most spectacular supernovae we all know of that may accomplish this. It is in reality one thing so uncommon that now we have solely just lately noticed it, though every thing we find out about cosmology prompt the likelihood.


Used very sparingly in watchmaking, palladium is — like the opposite metals in these sidebars — a platinum group steel. In the periodic desk, it’s recognized by the image Pd, and its atomic quantity is 46. Palladium shares lots of the similar properties of platinum, together with density and malleability. In truth, it’s the least dense of the metals in its group and its melting level is the least excessive, though nonetheless excessive. It additionally shares the identical catalytic properties that make it as interesting as platinum to trade, and it was essentially the most cost-effective. In the latest previous, palladium ore costs have outpaced platinum, in flip placing stress on platinum ore costs. Besides the problematic challenge of most provide coming from Russia, necessary mines there had already been hit by environmental points.

As a outcome, palladium is estimated by some sources (Statista) to be 15 instances as uncommon as platinum, which itself is nearly as uncommon as gold. Since 2016, the worth of palladium (per gramme) has elevated fourfold; clearly, the consequences of Covid-19 and the present battle in Ukraine haven’t been factored in but. On the opposite hand, there isn’t a good motive to make use of palladium for watches, since it is rather much like platinum however doesn’t have the cachet of that treasured steel. At the identical time, it may additionally be a great deal extra expensive than platinum, due to industrial demand and varied provide constraints.

Among Swiss watchmakers, Cartier, Ulysse Nardin, Audemars Piguet and H. Moser & Cie have used palladium in recent times. Interestingly, the majority metallic glass (BMG) of the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202XT for the latest version of OnlyWatch featured palladium within the combine.

For this, we flip to popular culture, the superb “Neutron Star Collision” by Muse. First, astrophysicists theorised that things like neutron stars should exist — these are stellar objects composed totally of neutrons. All the protons and electrons have fused into neutrons, within the wake of a very wonderful supernova. If the article had just a bit bit extra mass to go on, it will collapse right into a black gap. But it doesn’t, and thus stays a mass of tightly packed neutrons. Cosmologists speculated that maybe the additional mass (and subsequently power) wanted to remodel right into a black gap may come from one other such object, within the occasion of a collision. One results of such cosmic fireworks can be the manufacturing of heavy parts, just like the platinum group of metals. Another attainable rationalization is the hypernova, which is mainly a supernova on steroids, the place a stellar object with ample mass sheds its outer layers because it collapses to kind a black gap. In any case, the consensus seems to be that much less dense treasured metals corresponding to gold could be produced in mere supernovas.

From these intense origins, platinum ultimately settles into the crusts of planets like ours. Similar to gold and different dense metals, most of it in all probability sank proper all the way down to the core of the planet in query. Only a small half — roughly 5 μg/kg — is accessible within the crust, and roughly a number of hundred tonnes (Quill and Pad’s Joshua Munchow cites 150 tonnes, and treasured steel merchants usually put the determine at not more than 200 tonnes) are mined yearly. Interestingly, so far as accessible sources go, platinum is about as uncommon as gold, however it’s tougher to extract. Fratello estimates that to get 30 grammes of pure platinum, 10 tonnes of uncooked platinum ore are required. That sounds unimaginable, and the web site didn’t cite a supply, however the in need of it’s that it’s powerful to get pure platinum to work with. The nature of the steel additionally makes it tougher to recycle than gold, however this truth suits in higher a little bit later on this piece. 

Rarity alone can’t account for any steel’s use in watchmaking (or jewelry for that matter). The properties of the steel have to be appropriate too. For instance, iridium is in the identical household of metals as platinum, however it’s terribly brittle, making it a problem to machine. Similarly, rhodium is even rarer than platinum or gold, and instructions astronomical costs on the commodities market. It additionally has a particularly excessive melting level and isn’t malleable — certainly it’s typically alloyed with platinum to provide this materials higher rigidity — however extra on rhodium under.

This Is Hardcore

Platinum, however, is awfully malleable but in addition a lot denser than gold. To be completely clear right here, pure platinum is tougher than pure gold; it’s roughly twice as exhausting in reality. While you’ll be able to go away marks in gold by biting it, as motion pictures generally display, you can not do the identical with platinum. Having mentioned this, alloys change issues, and there’s a large distinction in how gold and platinum are alloyed in watchmaking. For the second, it’s ample to know that 18k gold is nearly as exhausting as 950 platinum, however the introduction already summarises many of the related data because it pertains to Swiss watchmaking.


A contender for the world’s most costly steel, averaging US$21,000+ per ounce in May this 12 months, rhodium finds itself in every single place in watchmaking, however by no means as a full case materials. It goes by the image Rh on the periodic desk of parts, and its atomic quantity is 45. Unlike platinum and palladium, it’s a group 9 aspect. It has the excellence of not often ever getting used to make full constructions, as an alternative being usually encountered as a coating or plating. Hence, most individuals accustomed to white gold will recall listening to about rhodiumised white gold, or rhodium-plated white gold. Compared with gold and platinum, no important reserves of rhodium exist, and just some 20 tonnes are mined yearly — making it a full order of magnitude decrease than platinum. Given that rhodium is in the identical noble metals group as platinum and palladium, it’s unsurprising to study that it too is a vital catalyst. Unlike the opposite metals, rhodium’s major goal in catalytic converters is to limit nitric oxide emissions in exhaust fumes; rhodium is the one aspect that manages this neat trick so there aren’t any viable alternate options for it.

We additionally discovered, from Periodic Videos, that rhodium is used as an entire construction to filter out dangerous x-rays in diagnostic instruments used to detect most cancers. All this goes an extended approach to explaining why rhodium is each particular and uncommon — and why you’ll not encounter it as a full object in watches and jewelry. However, rhodium’s corrosion-resistant properties are additionally a helpful safety towards corrosion (assume silver and brass) and that is how most of us can have made its acquaintance. Ebauches are repeatedly given rhodium plating (one micron thick or so) to make sure higher sturdiness, and EuropaStar studies that as the first function of this most treasured of metals. Rhodium can be the second brightest of all metals (after silver) so it does have necessary aesthetic properties too. This makes it helpful on appliques on dials, for instance, whereas it additionally makes boring outdated white gold a bit extra thrilling.

To shut this part, listed below are the fundamentals on platinum. Its atomic quantity is 78 and it’s listed within the periodic desk of parts as Pt (additionally how it’s denoted on watch instances). It is a part of the group 10 chemical parts within the periodic desk, alongside nickel and palladium (and presumably one different uncharacterised aspect), whereas additionally being the core constituent of what we name the platinum group of metals, alongside palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium and osmium. These different metals will largely be acquainted to look at patrons, lovers and hobbyists, and we embody sidebars right here for those most generally utilized in watchmaking. 

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